Marie Lueder, founder and director of LUEDER focusses in her work on community and wellbeing and pushes the idea of amateurism. Amateurism forces me to ask uninhibited questions, imagine radical futures for the industry and intimately consider the mental and physical armour for my wearers. To bring these new dreams into the world, I continuously rely on a community of makers, artists, industry disruptors, fellow dreamers and of course my friends. Without them, LUEDER would not and could not exist.
LUEDER was founded in November 2019 by Marie Lueder, a recent graduate of the Royal College of Art. Her practice is based on researching and portraying masculinities with the focus on mental health and wellbeing in modern western society today. The brand is in its second season with a range of what she calls `mental armour` in outerwear, trousers and shirts.
LUEDER is designed in Marie's studio in east London, incorporating fine craftsmanship with tailored finishings. A key focus of LUEDER’s is multiple time paradigms combining the conceptual approach with the tailoring skills she honed while working as a bespoke tailor for three years at the opera in Hamburg, Germany. Her process is grounded in reworking intimacy whilst educating herself through conversation. She believes it is important to be able to stand back and reflect what she wants to create and think about the ways her new mental armour could be used in an intimate exchange with a new wearer. Her practice hopes to impact a wide audience through inclusive language and sensory experiences to create conversation in relation to gender, bodies, idols, strength, vulnerability and emotions.
Now that we feel so (dis)connected, struggling to understand the present, it is Lueder’s aim to improve on this through the sensorial experience of wearing and wishing, and fictionalising the world. She invites the wearer to the past, present and a positive outlook onto a future for which she develops a dream-wake reality in her shows. To manifest the aura of a brand through a playful access is the approach to Lueder’s work and its informed and interested through continuous new collaboration with artists and and other designer and professionals to develop interactive experiences to nurture the senses.